Destination Reviews Dolomites
Dolomites: A skier's playground in Italy
Skiing in the majestic Dolomites was on my bucket list and it did not disappoint! I am an avid skier and was excited to use my Ikon pass in Europe.
One important thing to understand is that the “Dolomites” is the largest ski area in the world, comprised of 12 ski resorts with numerous towns dispersed throughout. The logistics of moving between the villages and the resorts can be challenging and requires some effort and planning.
I stayed in Cortina d’Ampezzo, so this review focuses primarily on that area.
The Bottom Line
If you are looking for a unique ski trip that in Italy that is not as crowded as some of the more popular resorts – the Dolomites is your place!
Many people are familiar with Dolomites as a fabulous hiking spot in Northern Italy; however, I would suggest a visit during the winter to experience these majestic mountains covered in snow!
The skiing options are plentiful; albeit hard to navigate if you are traveling there for the first time.
Getting There
The closest major airports to the Dolomites are: Venice (VCE), Innsbruck (INN), Treviso (TSF), and Milan (MXP). Each of these airports lends itself to using a different city as a homebase for your skiing adventure. Once you find airfare into one of these cities, it narrows down the options for which town you will want to stay in. I flew into Venice and enjoyed a relaxing day of sightseeing prior to heading up to the Dolomites
Depending on your arrival airport, there are various ways to reach the Dolomites:
Private Car for Hire: I chose this option because I had limited time in the Dolomites and the timing of the bus schedule would have required me to add a extra travel days before and after my ski vacation. The drivers typically pick passengers up at the Venice train station. I used this service and was very happy with them: Private transfer service
Train-Bus: The closest train station to Cortina is Calazo di Cadore. Trains can be accessed from major cities like Venice, then, once you arrive in Calazo di Cadore you can take a bus to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Each arrival airport and destination city will require some research to determine the best train and bus routes.
Rental Car: Driving is a convenient option, especially if you want to explore the surrounding areas. The road to Cortina is scenic and relatively easy to navigate. However, during the winter, snow chains and winter tires may be necessary.
Bus: There are a few bus companies that provide access to Cortina, as well as the other towns, and you can check their website for current schedules:
- Cortina Express: I used this service when I left Cortina to go to the Venice Maestre train station and it was quite comfortable and easy.
- Flixbus: This site offers inexpensive bus tickets from Venice to Cortina.
Things to Do
Choosing the town to use as your base is important as it will determine the resorts you will be skiing. I chose the upscale and charming town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina, I had easy access to three distinct ski mountains: Faloria-Cristallo, Centola-Foria and Diver-Moreto. The diversity of terrain and the range of difficulty of those mountains make Cortina an ideal hub for skiers of all levels.
My trip to the Dolomites was in April and, due to the warm weather, most of the mountains were closing early. Faloria-Cristallo is at a higher elevation and remained open, so that is where I did most of my skiing. Faloria is easy to access from the town of Cortina via a gondola that takes you up to the base of the mountain. The views from the ski area are absolutely breathtaking as you are surrounded by the jagged peaks of the Dolomites. My favorite activity, besides skiing of course, was relaxing at the resort restaurants, enjoying lunch and absorbing the view.
Because the other Cortina mountains had closed early for the season, I hired a private driver and ventured to Kronoplatz ski mountain , near the town of Brunico (still part of the Dolomiti SuperSki/Ikon Pass.) This ski mountain is slightly north of the Dolomites in an area of Italy known as southern Tyrol, due to its proximity to Austria. The drive to Kronoplatz was approximately an hour. It was a gorgeous drive and along the way the driver explained to me that the ski resorts in northern Italy have more money to invest in development because that area isn’t subject to the higher taxes that Rome imposes on the rest of the country. For example, that explains why Kronplatz had elevators from the parking lot to the base of the ski mountain and a large area with lockers. Some of these amenities are lacking at the other resorts.
The geology at Kronoplaz was a contrast to the landscape in Faloria. Kronoplaz has very long runs and views of rolling mountains, whereas Faloria has the quintessential jagged mountains surrounding the slopes. Upon reaching the top of the mountain in Kronoplaz, there is a large open area with a restaurant and the ability to ski down each of the 4 sides. This resort has a variety of ski terrains, although none seemed as difficult as the typical “expert” terrain in the states.
Ski Run at Faloria
View of Tofana from Faloria
The 3 Mountains near Cortina d'Ampezzo
- Faloria-Cristallo: This ski area is known for its stunning views and varied slopes suitable for all skill levels. From beginners to advanced skiers, Faloria-Cristallo offers a range of slope types amidst breathtaking mountain scenery.
- Tofana: This is where the spectacular world cup races are held each year.
- 5 Torri Lagazuoi: Its slopes range from easy to medium This ski area is a gateway to several ski tours into the neighboring valleys, including the Super 8 Ski Tour and the Great War Tour.
Major ski areas/mountains that comprise the Dolomiti Superski
- Cortina d’Ampezzo: Known for its glamour and stunning scenery, Cortina is a key ski destination in the Dolomiti Superski area.
- Val Gardena/Alpe di Siusi: This area includes the famous ski resorts of Selva di Val Gardena, Santa Cristina, and Ortisei.
- Alta Badia: Offering picturesque landscapes, Alta Badia includes popular resorts like Corvara and La Villa.
- Arabba/Marmolada: Arabba is a charming village that serves as a gateway to the Marmolada Glacier, the highest peak in the Dolomites.
- Val di Fassa/Carezza: This region encompasses resorts like Canazei and Campitello di Fassa, providing a variety of skiing experiences.
- Kronplatz: Located near Brunico, Kronplatz is known for its modern facilities and panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
- Val di Fiemme/Obereggen: This area offers a mix of family-friendly resorts, including the popular Obereggen.
- San Martino di Castrozza/Passo Rolle: Nestled in the eastern Dolomites, this region is characterized by its charming villages and scenic beauty.
- Alpe Lusia/San Pellegrino: Offering a combination of panoramic skiing and relaxation, this area includes resorts like Moena and Falcade.
Where to Stay
The Dolomites do not cater to chain hotels (I think there might be a Marriott owned hotel) which makes it challenging to redeem points.
I stayed at Ciasa Lorenzi and thought it was a reasonable, modest hotel that was quite nice. It is located slightly outside the main walking streets of Cortina, but within walking distance to the Gondola to get to the base of Faloria-Cristallo and the Cortina Express bus stop. They included breakfast and have an on-site restaurant that was convenient for dinner (especially when we were exhausted from skiing!) They also have a spa that included a steam room, sauna, hot tub and snacks that was available for a small fee. There is a ski rental shop across the road that is very convenient for getting all your ski equipment.
The town itself is a large resort with two cable cars from either end of the center accessing the main ski areas. The center has been pedestrianized along the Corso Italia and, along with some luxury hotels, visitors can indulge in high-end clothing and sports stores.
Travel Tips
- TIP: Check transportation prior as you get closer to arrival when you have a better idea of the weather. Winter conditions on the roads in the Dolomites can impact your travel plans.
- TIP: Schedule your ski trip prior to April if possible. The further into April, the greater chance of the mountains closing early, depending on snowpack.
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